Hand embroidery

Volumetric, ornate embroidery

Volumetric embroidery (photo and video)

  • Bootie equipment
  • Loot Master Plus trapunto-class technology
  • Marseille's pique technique
  • Trapunto

Embroiderers have long been attracted to and returned to the ancient and beautiful spectacle of embroidery called buti (butis). This embroidery is almost always combined with another, well known trapunto. The combination of the two techniques Buti and trapunto results in a magnificent fabric with a raised, soft-filled pattern. It exhibits a delicate and majestic pattern, ideal for curtains, pillowcases, rugs and clothing. The technique dates back to the early 17th century. It originated in Italy, and from the 18th century it spread to the United States, where it continues to be known and popular to this day. The buti technique was used not only in Italy and America, but also in the south of France.

Its spread in different countries is due to the fact that even the simplest Buti Regal embroidery patterns and motifs look elegant. The technique of Buti embroidery is not an easy one; it is very painstaking work that requires endurance and perseverance. The needle-stitch technique is a front stitch of white fabric, folded into two layers. The embroidery thread is an unusual white colour. Buti must embroider the pattern as lines in a closed system.

Bootie equipment

The first and foremost lesson in embroidery is boutiques; once the outline lines are finished, the empty space between them is filled with white thick thread. As a result, the embroidery takes on volume.
The second and equally important lesson for acquiring the bouti ng skill in this area is as follows. First, two layers of white quilted fabric are joined together with a small stitch of white thread around the outline of the pattern. Then, from the wrong side of the pattern on the fabric, make a small piercing needle and pass a packing wire through it between the layers of fabric. As you can see, the buti technique does not only apply to sewing, but also to other techniques.

If the embroidery is done on a bouti in a fabric that is not very thick, such as satin, it can be done without a cut. In this case, embroidering a bouti requires the steps of advancing the thread through the fabric with a long, blunt needle and inserting a bundle of fibres (wool or cotton threads). Most importantly, the wrap must exactly match the colour of the fabric itself.
In this embroidery technique, the bouti looks the same as on the front and underneath.

It is necessary to prepare:

  • Fabrics (cotton);
  • Sewing thread (Madeira cotton);
  • Packing yarn (50% and 50% acrylic wool);
  • Blunt needle (for pulling the yarn);
  • tweezers;
  • Scissors.

Our fabric is shaped like a square with a side of 50 cm. The top layer should translate the pattern. This can be glass and backlit from underneath. Draw the pattern on the fabric marker. A washable marker should be used. Now add the people and inside out and swipe together. Then start attaching small eyes (1-1.50mm). The technique of embroidering a closed Buti motif is a painstaking and time-consuming task. But the embroidery is worth it, and the result will delight you and all your loved ones.

When this operation is complete, you will need to remove the pattern. To do this, you will need to dampen our embroidery bouti to dry and iron it out. The stitching should be such that the good and bad sides of the work overlap. This nuance can be clearly seen in the video. For the full effect that a masterclass can have, watching this video is highly desirable. The other part of working on bouti embroidery is the creation of relief. Relief is the main feature of buti embroidery. Use a blunt needle with a large eye and a long needle, so that you can thread a thick thread. The needle must not be sharp, otherwise it will stick to the fabric when threading. You can use a special tapestry needle. Provide an entry for our thick needle. No cuts, just a tear in the fabric. This operation makes it easy for the yarn to pass through the fabric. Buti is the secret of the art, where everything is done without cuts and people are equal on the inside. The yarn can pass through in a single layer and can be folded in half. It all depends on how much of a bulge you want.

The end of the yarn is tucked into the hole with tweezers, and the hole itself is carefully aligned with the needle. We get rid of the yarn on each of our stems and then stuff the larger items. But packing large items refers to the trapunto technique, not the Buti technique. Trapunto in the original old version looks like a bootie. They differed only in the technique of pushing the stuffing trap through the cut which finally stitches it up. In this case the bottom of the embroidery comes out absolutely flawless. You can now cast on without cutting, but press the pad with tweezers rather than fine needles. In this case, the bottom of the trapunto becomes the same as the bottom of the shoe. Stuff the yarn made with a needle or needlepoint if possible. Then straighten the needles of the yarn and continue the filling. And so we will continue to work all the way through until we have finished filling the element.

The embroidery ideas are taken from the everyday Butisit. They can be different colours or plants. After the quilting motifs, they are padded with cotton cord. The main difference with Buti Art is that the patterns are reversible and look just as beautiful with the front side and vice versa. The background pattern of this technique is a quilted circle, a padded cord placed on a diagonal grid. This pattern is called 'paste'. Truly fine examples of Provençal boots are made from fine cotton fabrics such as chambray or the finest linen. Consequently, such pieces contrast with the light. They are full of the patterns that form the basis of transparent contrasting pieces.

Marseille's pique technique

Now let's get into Marcel's top technique. This is a great variety of buti. The only disadvantage of a product made in this technique is its saturation. It doesn't shine in the light like a three-layer fabric. The first layer is made of cotton, the second of synthetic cotton, the bottom layer of lining material. It takes longer to sew than the Buti stitches. There are also differences in the motifs of the two genres. The motifs of the Marseilles pique are predominantly geometric. Generally, craftsmen from France work at the pinnacle of Marseilles engineering, using Indian cotton prints. But it can also be a simple white canvas. In this technique, it consists of a dressing gown as well as bedspreads and furniture covers.


Another similarity is the close embroidery of buti in Italian trapunto. We have already briefly mentioned this technique. We add a little more to our knowledge. This technique uses two layers of material, as in the Buti technique. However, unlike it, trapunto is one-sided. The left side is very different from the front side, because it has slits for stuffing the embroidered parts. After wrapping, we sew up the small cuts with stitches. Sometimes trapunto acts as a top layer of the garment and is then combined with batting and lining. Continue stitching all the layers together as in the Marseilles Peak technique. This increase in the number of layers leads to an increase in the volume of the product obtained by the trapunto method, respectively. These craftsmen can successfully combine all these techniques to create magnificent works of art, each with a unique finesse. Works made by hand are particularly appreciated.

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